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How Beer Variety Happens*
Choices the Brewer Makes in the Brewing Process
by Charles Hiigel
The possibilities for variety in beer seem endless when you think about the many
changes that must take place in converting barley, water and hops into a
fermentable liquid. Fermentation is the conversion of sugars to alcohol and CO2,
and extracting a sugary liquid from barley, which is neither liquid nor sweet,
is the fundamental goal of the brewing process. But the decisions that each
brewer makes along the way, and then in the fermentation process itself, result
in a wonderful array of beer varieties.
Malting
The first change is in the inside of the grain as it is converted from barley to
malt. A week long steeping of the grains starts a germination, and the starches
inside are made soluble. The grains are kiln-dried, stopping germination. At
this time, the maltster may use an extended roasting at higher temperatures to
achieve a variety of malt colorings. The choice of barley types and region where
they were grown, the amount of modification of the grain during germination, the
moisture content of the grain at the time of roasting, and the amount of
roasting, are all variations that the brewer will take into account in selecting
the amount and proportions of malt varieties for his brew. The beer's color will
be the most obvious result of these decisions, but also the amount of
unfermentable sugars extracted in the mash, and the beer's body and head
retention are affected.
Mashing
The heart of the action at the brewery takes place in the mash tun where the
malt, after being precisely cracked into grist in the mill, is brought into
contact with warm water, and the enzymes in the malt convert the starches into
sugar. The mineral balance of the water may be manipulated to assist the starch
conversions and emulate the water of famous brewing cities in Europe. The
temperature of the mash is carefully controlled, and the brewer may hold the
mash at a sequence of temperature settings during the one and a half to two hour
process. As the new sweet liquid, called "wort" is drained off, fresh water
rinses the last stubborn sugars from the spent grains, and adjusts the specific
gravity of the liquid to the desired level. In this decision, the brewer begins
to determine the alcohol strength of the finished beer.
Brewing
The wort is transferred to the brewkettle, and is brought to a full rolling
boil, again for one and a half to two hours. Here the wort is stabilized,
proteins coagulate and drop out, any bacteria is killed, and most importantly,
the brewers favorite choices are made: which hops to add, how much, and when.
The resins in the cone of the hop flower give the brewer the bitterness
necessary to balance the sweetness of the malt, act as a natural preservative,
provide a wonderful floral aroma, and the hops may even serve as a filter when
the wort is run off out of the kettle. There are many different varieties of
hop, some best known for their bitterness, and others for their aromatic
contributions. The former are added at the beginning of the boil, and the latter
at the end. Intermediate additions of hops may be used to add character. Each
hop has its own personality and can often be identified in the finished beer.
The amount of hop bitterness imparted will be the determining factor in the
beer's "balance."
Fermenting
The brewer now has a fermentable liquid with the desired color, potential
strength, and malt/hop balance. All that remains is to ferment it. As you might
guess, many more decisions will be made.
Whether the beer will be an ale or a lager will be determined by the choice of
yeast strain used, the temperature during primary fermentation and aging, and
the duration of the aging. Ale fermentation is the old method, using a
top-fermenting yeast, which acts best at easily available cellar or cave
temperatures, and finishes in as few as two weeks. "Lager," the German word for
"to store," gained popularity with the advent of modern microbiology and modern
refrigeration, since it employs a bottom fermenting yeast, and must be kept at
very low temperatures for four to twelve weeks. Bottomfermentation may result in
a cleaner, crisper beer character, topfermenting yeasts will be more likely to
remain a part of the finished beer's character, and enhance the beer's
fruitiness and complexity.
Packaging & Serving
The beer is now finished, but even in the packaging, more decisions such as
filtration, pasteurization, and additional fermentation and aging in the keg or
bottle will be made.
The last decisions are left to the drinker. Which beer variety will match the
mood and situation. What serving temperature suits the beer, how much C02 will
be released in raising a foam during pouring, and what glass will best enhance
the beer's color and aroma?
It would be impossible to sample every permutation of beer variation. But one
can't help thinking it would be fun to try!
* Taken from the program notes for the San Luis Obispo Varietal Beer Festival,
August 24, 1996.
Reproduced here with the permission of Charles Hiigel.
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